GE heat pump water heater
GE GeoSpring DEEJS / DFEJS (2015–2016) error codes
Covers: GeoSpring Hybrid Electric (models GEH50DEEJS, GEH50DFEJS, GEH80DEEJS, GEH80DFEJS)
Every code listed in GE's own manual for this series, with what it means and what GE says to do. Last checked 2026-10-03.
Is this your model? Model number GEH50DEEJS / GEH50DFEJS / GEH80DEEJS / GEH80DFEJS (rating label on the front side of the water heater). GE's support pages for GEH50DFEJSR, GEH80DFEJSR and GEH50DEEJSC state 'Manufactured January, 2015 - October, 2016'. Anode depletion sensing (ANODE button, F16/F17) is on some models only.
| Code | Label | What the manual says it means |
|---|---|---|
| F-C | Evaporator Not Frost Free. Probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F-D | Superheat Too Low. Possible refrigerant leak. | |
| F-E | Discharge Temperature Above Limit. Possible refrigerant leak. | |
| F-F | Electronic Expansion Valve Out of Range. Probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F-G | T5 Ambient Temperature Check | |
| F-I | Refrigerant Leak Test. Probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F-J | Concurrent Load High Current | |
| F-L | Evaporator Not Defrosting | |
| F2 | T2 Tank Temperature Sensor Failure | |
| F3 | Compressor Failure | |
| F4 | Fan Failure | |
| F5 | T3a Sensor (Evap inlet temperature) Failure | |
| F6 | T3b Sensor (Evap outlet temperature) Failure | |
| F7 | T4 Sensor (Compressor outlet) Failure | |
| F8 | T5 Sensor (ambient temperature) Failure | |
| F9 | Lower Heating Element Failure | |
| F10 | Upper Heating Element Failure | |
| F11 | Dry Tank Fault | Dry Tank Fault. The water heater has not been filled with water before powering up. Powering up the heater without water will damage the electric heaters; the warranty does not cover operation with an empty or partially empty tank. |
| bAd linE (F12) | The voltage is too low at power-up. Unit is not receiving 240VAC as intended (incorrect wiring). | |
| F13 | Stuck Key Fault | |
| Dirty Filter (F14) | Filter is dirty. If fault repeats after clearing, probable refrigerant leak. | |
| F15 | DataFlash Fault | |
| F16 | Anode Rod Depleted | Anode Rod Depleted (some models). The anode rod is approaching end of life and it is recommended to replace it to continue to offer protection from corrosion; the red light above the ANODE button illuminates and the control beeps. |
| F17 | Empty Tank or Anode Rod Wired Incorrectly (some models). The anode rod is not connected properly and the water heater may not be protected from corrosion. (Also displayed on power-up after an Aluminum-Zinc anode rod is installed, until the sensing feature is disabled.) | |
| F18 | Current Tansformer Wired Incorrectly [sic] | |
| F19 | Low Line Voltage | |
| F20 | Condensate Drain Pan Port Clogged. The heat pump will stop operating and an alarm will sound; the unit continues to produce hot water using the backup resistance heating elements until the drain is cleared. | |
| F21 | Application Update Failure | |
| F22 | Parametric Data Updated Failure | |
| F23 | Micro A/D Failure |
GE's manual for this series does not list error codes; see the troubleshooting section below.
Safety first
- CAUTION: For your safety, DO NOT attempt repair of electrical wiring, controls, heating elements or other safety devices. Refer repairs to qualified service personnel. (p.19)
- CAUTION: Risk of Shock - Shut off power to the water heater before draining water. (p.9)
- DANGER: Risk of Scald - Before manually operating the relief valve, make certain no one will be exposed to the hot water released by the valve. (p.9)
- Anode rod inspection should be done by a qualified servicer or plumber, with electric power and cold water supply turned off, due to shock hazard and to prevent accidental water leaks. (p.11)
- Temperature-limiting control (TCO): resetting should be done by a qualified service technician; the cause of the high temperature condition must be investigated before placing the heater in service again. (p.4)
- If the water heater has been subjected to flood, fire, or physical damage, turn off power and water; do not operate again until thoroughly checked by qualified service personnel. (p.3)
- Anode Rod Maintenance and Service section carries: 'CAUTION - IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: This information is intended for use by individuals possessing adequate background of electrical, electronic and mechanical experience. Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property damage.' (p.12)
From the manufacturer's manual for this series.
Troubleshooting without a code
Heater is beeping and the screen displays an error code
Likely cause: Heat pump system issue, codes "FA"-"F8"; Control or other issue, codes "F9"-"F23".
What to do: The water heater may automatically switch to another available heating mode to ensure continued availability of hot water. Contact service immediately and give them the codes listed on the display screen. To quiet the beeping, press either the UP or DOWN arrow button.
The filter light is on
Likely cause: The filter requires cleaning. A clean filter is necessary for effective operation.
What to do: Follow the instructions on how to remove and clean the filter on page 10. Repeated dirty filter alarms that do not resolve by cleaning the filter may be an indication of a sealed system failure. Contact service.
The green mode indicator light is flashing
Likely cause: Normal operation.
What to do: In Hybrid Mode and High Demand/Boost Mode, the Electric/Standard Mode LED will flash anytime the heating elements are active. In Electric/Standard Mode, the operating mode LED will flash after 48 hours as an indication that the unit is not operating in the most energy efficient mode. These conditions are normal and do not indicate an operating issue.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water temperature may be set too low.
What to do: See the Water Temperature Adjustment and Water Heater Capacity sections (pages 4 & 5).
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Hot water usage pattern exceeds the capability of the water heater in current mode.
What to do: Change to different mode. Wait for the water heater to recover after an abnormal demand.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Cold water inlet temperature may be colder during the winter months.
What to do: This is normal. The colder inlet water takes longer to heat. Consider increasing the set temperature as described in the Water Temperature Adjustment section.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Leaking or open hot water faucets.
What to do: Make sure all faucets are closed.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Long runs of exposed pipe, or hot water piping on outside wall.
What to do: Insulate piping.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Not enough clearance to allow air to circulate for the heat pump.
What to do: Make sure unit is 7" away from the wall and has 8" clearance above the air filter.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Room is too small or too cool, slowing heating performance.
What to do: If the room is smaller than 700 cu.ft. (10'x10'x7'), install louvred doors or similar ventilation. Cooler room temperatures can cause the water heater to take longer to fully recover to the set temperature; consider increasing the set temperature.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: A fuse is blown, circuit breaker tripped, or electric service to your home may be interrupted.
What to do: Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. Contact the local electric utility.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Inadequate wiring.
What to do: See the Installation Instructions.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Manual reset limit (TCO).
What to do: See the Safety Controls section, see page 4.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Water connections to unit reversed.
What to do: Correct piping connections.
Not enough or no hot water
Likely cause: Recirculating system interference (if installed).
What to do: Check flow rate is not set too high. Insulate piping.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Water temperature is set too high.
What to do: See the Water Temperature Adjustment section.
Water is too hot
Likely cause: Electric control has failed.
What to do: Call for service.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Room is not vented properly or is too small.
What to do: If the room is smaller than 700 cu.ft. (10'x10'x7') then it must have a louvred door or other means to allow air exchange with surrounding rooms.
Water heater is making the room cooler
Likely cause: Heat is removed from the air to heat the water.
What to do: This is normal.
Water heater makes sounds
Likely cause: A fan is used to move air through the system.
What to do: Some amount of fan sound is normal. If you hear an abnormal sound or the sound level seems unusually loud (ex, louder than a window A/C), then contact service.
Water heater makes sounds
Likely cause: The EEV valve makes clicking noises upon power up.
What to do: This is normal.
Unit is not making normal sounds
Likely cause: If unit is using electric resistance elements, it will not make fan or compressor sounds.
What to do: Check mode of unit.
Rumbling noise
Likely cause: Water conditions in your home caused a buildup of scale or mineral deposits on the heating elements.
What to do: Remove and clean the heating elements. This should only be done by a qualified service person.
Water dripping down the outside of the heater
Likely cause: Condensate drain is clogged.
What to do: Clear out any debris in the drain port on the unit.
Water dripping down the outside of the heater
Likely cause: Hot/Cold water connections or other parts have loosened.
What to do: Tighten the loose connections. This should only be done by a qualified service person.
Relief valve producing popping sound or draining
Likely cause: Pressure buildup caused by thermal expansion to a closed system.
What to do: This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected. See Thermal Expansion section on page 14. Do not plug the relief valve outlet. Contact a plumbing contractor to correct this.
Hot water has a rotten egg or sulfur smell
Likely cause: Certain water supplies with high sulfate content will react with the anode rod that is present in all water heaters for corrosion protection of the tank.
What to do: The odor can be reduced or eliminated in most water heaters by replacing the anode rod with less-active material rod. In some cases, chlorinating the water heater and all hot water lines may be necessary; contact your local water professional or plumber. Call 1.888.4GE.HEWH (1.888.443.4394) to learn how to purchase this replacement anode rod. A qualified servicer or plumber should do this replacement. Use of a non-GE Appliances approved anode rod, or operating without one, will VOID the warranty.
Heat pump is not running its normal length of time
Likely cause: Under some conditions the unit operates using the electric elements instead of the heat pump to protect the unit and ensure hot water: extreme cold ambient temperature (<35F), extreme hot ambient temperatures (>120F), or very low voltage conditions.
What to do: The unit will return to normal operation when conditions permit.
Owner maintenance
Yearly preventive maintenance program
How often: Yearly
Inspect T&P relief valve; inspect heating elements, TCO and wiring; drain and flush the tank; clean the air filter; clear the condensate drain pan and drain lines; remove and inspect the anode rod.
Test temperature and pressure-relief valve
How often: Once a year
Lift and release the lever handle on the T&P relief valve (front-right side of the water heater) to make certain the valve operates freely. Allow several gallons to flush through the discharge line to an open drain.
Inspect heating elements, TCO and wiring
How often: Once a year
Inspection should be completed by service personnel qualified in electrical appliance repair.
Drain and flush tank
How often: Once a year
Turn off power to the unit (elements are damaged if operated without water). Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and direct it to a drain. Turn off the cold water supply. Admit air by opening a hot water faucet or lifting the relief valve handle. Open the drain valve with a flat screwdriver. Once empty, with the drain open, turn on the cold water supply and let several gallons flush through; turn off supply and let it drain; repeat until water runs clear. Close the drain valve and fill the tank (water runs from a nearby open hot faucet) before returning power.
Clean air filter
How often: When the red light above FILTER is on and the alarm sounds
Leave the power on. Squeeze two tabs and lift to remove the filter from the top of the unit. Vacuum, wipe with a damp cloth or rinse with warm water. Once cleaned and dried, align it into the slots and push down into place. Press and hold the FILTER button to reset the alarm. If the dirty filter alarm returns within a few days after cleaning and resetting, it may indicate a refrigerant leak; further diagnosis by a service technician is necessary.
Clear condensate drain
How often: Periodically inspect the drain lines
If the main drain clogs, the heat pump stops, F20 shows and an alarm sounds. Press any button to silence the alarm, remove drain lines and connections, clear debris, reattach, and allow the water heater to run.
Inspect anode rod
How often: Annually
Remove and inspect; replace when more than 6" (15.2 cm) of core wire is exposed at either end of the rod. Artificially softened water consumes the rod faster. Should be done by a qualified servicer or plumber with the electric power and cold water supply turned off. Sensing-anode models: when F16 shows, inspect and replace if core wire at the top is exposed or rod is shorter than 33" (83.8 cm). If a device periodically cuts power to the heater, inspect the anode every 2-3 years.
Sources
- GeoSpring Hybrid Electric Residential Owner's Manual (GEH50DEEJS, GEH50DFEJS, GEH80DEEJS, GEH80DFEJS) (49-50300-2)
- GeoSpring Hybrid Electric Residential Owner's Manual & Installation Instructions (same models, earlier revision) (49-50300-1)
- GE Appliances support pages for GEH50DFEJSR / GEH80DFEJSR / GEH50DEEJSC (manufacture dates; link 49-50300-2)